Most people have a skincare routine set in stone, but it may not be exactly what their skin needs.
While many of us know that an effective skincare routine should feature cleansing, hydrating and skin-protecting products, what a lot of us may not realise is just how important it is to apply these products in the right order and give them enough time to properly absorb. If you know you’re one to skim over a product’s instructions (guilty!), the truth is that not following the appropriate steps or recommended application method could significantly reduce a product’s efficacy and impact. The bottom line: skipping the technicalities means you might not be fully getting your money’s worth.
In a bid to target all key areas effectively, skin layering has been propelled into the spotlight on social media. It’s the practice of applying all your products in a set order from thinnest to thickest, rather than all at once. This includes a morning routine of cleansing, followed by applying an antioxidant serum, moisturiser and sunscreen.
Before we delve into the details on incorporating skin layering into your own regimen, it’s important to note there is no one-size-fits-all routine, according to specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald.
“The ideal routine depends on your skin type, individual concerns, goals and any underlying skin conditions.”
So, keep reading to find out how to tailor a routine to your skin type, needs and concerns, with a step-by-step skincare guide that will help you curate exactly what you need in your morning and evening routines, and how to order every product to effectively practice skin layering.
Need to know
- A daytime skincare routine should clean and hydrate the skin and offer skin protection. This should follow the order of cleansing, applying a serum and moisturiser, and ending with a broad spectrum sunscreen.
- An evening skincare routine prioritises cleaning the skin, hydration and skin barrier protection. A simple regimen should include cleansing, using active treatments (toners, exfoliants, or serums) and applying moisturising creams or oils.
- Skincare products should always be applied from thinnest to thickest consistency as part of practicing skin layering. Liquids and water-based serums should be applied first, followed by heavier creams and oils. This is to ensure proper absorption and prevent product pilling.
- Most serums and moisturisers require just 30 to 60 seconds to absorb before applying the next layer. If it is taking longer, you likely have applied too much.
- Specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald says an effective skincare routine does not need dozens of products. The essential foundation for any skin type is a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturiser, and daily SPF 50+ sunscreen.
What is skin layering?
Skin layering is the process of applying skincare products in a set order so that each product can work effectively. Rather than applying all your products at once, certain layers are put on sequentially to absorb, keep the skin hydrated and target any specific skin concerns.
When skin layering as part of a morning routine, Australian specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald says the best order consists of:
- Cleansing the skin with a gentle cleanser
- Applying an antioxidant serum containing Vitamin C or niacinamide
- Applying a moisturiser with barrier-protecting ingredients
- Applying a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 50 or 50+
Similarly when skin layering at night, she suggests the following application order:
- Cleansing the skin to remove dirt, oil and makeup
- Toning and exfoliating (the latter up to three times a week)
- Applying eye cream or serum
- Applying moisturiser or face oil to support the skin barrier overnight
Each of these products need to be applied in the correct order and from thinnest to thickest consistency. This will help the active ingredients absorb as well as reduce pilling and uneven application. If not used or applied correctly, it can reduce the overall effectiveness of your skincare routine.
Ensure you follow the application instructions of each product carefully to prevent skin irritation, as well as introduce new products to your routine one at a time to minimise the risk.
Also consider the time needed between applying each ingredient. Dr McDonald says: “If products are taking a long time to absorb, feel sticky or are rolling off the skin, you may simply be applying too much or layering too many formulations.”
How do I build a skincare routine?
To build a skincare routine, you need a good understanding of your skin type and what your skin needs by adding new products in gradually:
- Start with the basics: Begin with just cleanser, moisturiser and SPF sun protection.
- Create a routine and checklist for morning and night: Keep a consistent routine with suitable products to start and end your day.
- Understand what your skin needs: Look for suitable textures to suit your skin type – whether you have oily skin, dry skin, sensitive skin or combination skin.
- Add new products one at a time, and only when you need them: Don’t use products with different actives at the same time. Patch test anything you haven’t tried before.
- Apply your products from lightweight to heavy: The thinnest texture should go first, with the thickest applied last.
What is the best morning skincare routine?
A quality morning skincare routine should tick off the following steps:
- Cleanse the skin
- Apply a serum
- Apply a moisturiser
- Apply a broad spectrum sunscreen
Dr McDonald recommends a morning skincare routine that focuses on “protection and prevention, particularly protecting the skin against UV exposure, environmental damage and oxidative stress.”
Step 1: Cleanse the skin
Making sure your skin is clean is the essential first step to a skincare routine. Dr McDonald advises: “start with a gentle cleanser,” rather than something harsh on the skin.
While many people opt to begin their routine by double cleansing — involving cleansing with two different types of cleansers: an oil-based cleanser and a water-based cleanser — the dermatologist suggests you may not need to double cleanse as part of a morning routine.
“The purpose of cleansing is to remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt and excess oil without disrupting the skin’s natural protective barrier. If one gentle cleanse achieves that, there’s absolutely no reason to do it twice,” says Dr McDonald.
Step 2: Apply a serum
“Incorporating an antioxidant serum helps neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution,” Dr McDonald reveals.
There are two types of core ingredients Dr McDonald recommends for a morning skincare serum:
- Vitamin C: Vitamin C is an antioxidant serum that also supports the appearance of skin firmness, elasticity, and visible renewal over time.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): “It’s particularly versatile because it helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, regulate oil production and improve uneven pigmentation. It’s also generally well tolerated by most skin types.”
“You don’t necessarily need separate Vitamin C and niacinamide serums, particularly if you’re using a well-formulated product containing multiple beneficial ingredients,” says Dr McDonald. “It’s more important to choose the right ingredients than to accumulate lots of products.”
It’s also important to avoid applying Vitamin C serums with interactive ingredients such as exfoliating acids (AHAs and BHAs), retinol and benzoyl peroxide. And remember, your serums should always come before applying your moisturiser. If using multiple serums, they should be applied in order of thinnest to thickest in consistency.
Step 3: Apply a moisturiser
Using a moisturiser in the morning is an essential element to a morning skincare routine and should be used daily to maintain your skin’s hydration.
Look for a moisturiser that contains lightweight, barrier-protecting ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, Vitamin E and ceramides — though exactly what you’re after may vary depending on your skin type.
Step 4: Apply a broad spectrum sunscreen
“Sunscreen is unquestionably the most important step in any morning skincare routine,” Dr McDonald says. Every morning skincare routine needs to end with applying a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 50 or 50+ and should be applied every day no matter the weather — not just on sunny days.
These should be reapplied every two hours, and immediately after swimming, sweating, or towel drying. The Australian standard sunscreen dosage is at least one teaspoon (approximately 5mL) spread across the face, neck and ears, but always read the specific application and reapplication instructions on the bottle.
Disclaimer: Always read the label and follow the directions for use.
What is the best night skincare routine?
Dr McDonald says: “While mornings are primarily about protection, evenings are an opportunity to support skin repair, renewal and regeneration.” When finishing the day, you should follow this routine order:
- Cleanse the skin and remove any makeup
- Apply toners, chemical exfoliants, and active treatments
- Apply eye serums or creams
- Apply moisturiser and face oil
Step 1: Cleanse the skin and remove any makeup
Cleansing your skin is the first step in your evening routine. “A gentle cleanser is a good starting point to remove sunscreen, makeup, excess oil and environmental debris accumulated throughout the day,” says Dr McDonald.
While not necessary, if you are going to double cleanse your skin, the evening is the better time to do so. You should start with a makeup remover or oil-based cleanser first, followed by a water-based cleanser.
Step 2: Apply toners, chemical exfoliants, and active treatments
Toning is the next step in your routine. It serves as a way to remove any excess oil and impurities on the skin following a skin cleanse.
Dr McDonald says “evening is a great time to incorporate targeted active ingredients, particularly retinoids, exfoliating acids or peptides.”
She recommends using toners, exfoliators and treatments that contain the following active ingredients:
- Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives): Over-the-counter ingredients such as retinol, retinal, or retinyl esters “can improve the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation, skin texture and acne. However, they need to be introduced gradually to avoid irritation.” It should be applied on dry skin approximately five to 10 minutes after cleansing.
- Peptides: “This particular product targets hydration, skin firmness and ageing. Some peptides may support skin repair and collagen-related processes, although the evidence is generally less robust than it is for retinoids.”
- Glycolic, lactic or salicylic exfoliating acids: “These can be useful for improving roughness, congestion, dullness and uneven skin tone. They’re not necessary for everyone, though, and excessive exfoliation is a common cause of skin irritation.” If applying, AHA and BHA exfoliants should be used after cleansing.
You don’t need to use all three of these ingredients every night. In fact, Dr McDonald suggests “alternating products and giving skin time to adapt is often a much better approach.”
Step 3: Apply eye serums or creams
After toning, applying an eye cream or serum offers more targeted hydration while minimising the appearance of fine lines. This needs to be applied before you add your heavier and thicker moisturisers to avoid issues like poor absorption and product pilling.
Step 4: Apply moisturiser and face oil
Aside from it just being a luxurious way to finish a skincare routine, Dr McDonald says ending the day with a good moisturiser “can help replenish skin lipids, reduce water loss and support overnight barrier recovery.” Similarly, applying a face oil can also maintain and lock in the hydration the moisturiser provides.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a basic skincare routine anyone can follow?
A basic skincare routine consists of using a gentle skin cleanser, a moisturiser and a broad-spectrum SPF 50 or 50+ sunscreen.
Dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald reveals that she loves “a simple skincare routine because consistency is far more important than complexity. Those three products alone provide a great foundation for maintaining healthy skin.”
Cleansing should be done twice a day to remove impurities from the skin. A lightweight moisturiser helps start the day with a hydration boost and applying sunscreen should always be your final step in your morning skincare routine.
However, Dr McDonald adds, “I always recommend starting with a simple routine and only adding extra steps when there’s a clear benefit.”
Some people may benefit from adding other products and ingredients. Dr McDonald suggests following the ‘skincare ABCs’:
- A – Vitamin A: Retinoids for skin renewal, collagen stimulation, fine lines, pigmentation and acne.
- B – Vitamin B3: Niacinamide for barrier support, inflammation, oil regulation and uneven skin tone.
- C – Vitamin C: Antioxidant protection, collagen support and brighter, more even skin tone.
All three of these ingredients certainly do not need to be included in a basic routine, and will be more suitable to some skin types more than others.
“A simple morning routine might be a Vitamin C or niacinamide product followed by sunscreen, with moisturiser if required. In the evening, cleanse, apply a retinoid if appropriate, and moisturise. That’s a very effective routine without needing ten different products or spending half an hour in the bathroom,” says Dr McDonald.
How do I tailor a skincare routine for my skin type?
“Skincare should always be individualised,” says Dr McDonald. “Two people of the same age can have completely different requirements based on their skin type, underlying conditions, lifestyle, environment and personal goals.”
Dr McDonald also says it is important to distinguish between your skin type and your skin condition. “Your skin type may be naturally oily or dry, but certain conditions require additional consideration.”
“The goal isn’t to follow the latest skincare routine. It’s to develop one that suits your skin and that you’re happy to maintain consistently.”
What is the skin barrier?
The skin barrier is “our skin’s built-in protective shield,” according to the specialist dermatologist.
“The outermost layer of skin, called the stratum corneum, consists of skin cells surrounded by a complex mixture of lipids, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. I often describe it as a brick wall, where the skin cells are the bricks and the surrounding lipids are the mortar.”
But, not everyone needs to use a skin barrier protective product, explains Dr McDonald. If your skin barrier is already in a healthy condition, “the best approach is simply to avoid damaging it in the first place.”
Do I need to double cleanse?
“Double cleansing certainly isn’t essential for everyone, despite what social media might suggest,” says Dr McDonald. Double cleansing involves cleansing your skin with two different cleansers in a row: An oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser. While people should cleanse their skin twice a day as part of an effective skincare routine, it does not necessarily involve double cleansing.
“The purpose of cleansing is to remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt and excess oil without disrupting the skin’s natural protective barrier. If one gentle cleanse achieves that, there’s absolutely no reason to do it twice,” adds Dr McDonald.
However, it can be helpful for people who wear a lot of makeup or water-resistant sun protection, or have naturally oily skin.
“Cleanse as much as you need to, but as little as you can get away with. Skin shouldn’t feel tight, dry or squeaky clean after washing. That’s often a sign you’ve overdone it.”
How long should I wait after applying each skincare product?
You can start skin layering different skincare products immediately, as long as you’re following product application recommendations. Dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald says: “There’s no need to stand around waiting several minutes between applications.
“Generally, once a product has spread evenly and absorbed sufficiently that the next layer won’t simply rub it off or cause pilling, you can move on.”
Most serums and moisturisers should only require around 30 to 60 seconds waiting before moving onto the next product. But keep in mind, you should not use chemical exfoliants (AHAs or BHAs) and a retinoid in the same routine. Instead, practice ‘skin cycling’ by alternating nights. An example of this is exfoliating on Monday, applying a retinoid on Tuesday, and focusing on barrier recovery on Wednesday and Thursday.
“Ultimately, the formulation and compatibility of your products matter much more than precise timing between applications,” Dr McDonald explains.
What do I do if my skincare products start pilling during skin layering?
If your products begin pilling while skin layering, you should:
- Pat dry the products rather than rubbing
- Wait an additional 30 to 60 seconds before applying the next layer
- Apply products in routine order from thinnest to thickest product
- Wipe off any pills with a tissue or rinse your face with warm water
What ingredients should I look out for in my skincare routine?
To support a healthy skin barrier, Dr Cara McDonald recommends looking for ingredients including:
- Ceramides: Fatty lipids designed to prevent water loss from the skin
- Cholesterol: Reduces water loss and promotes softer feeling skin
- Fatty acids: Includes linoleic acid and stearic acid to support the skin barrier
- Glycerin: A humectant to attract moisture and hydrate the skin
- Hyaluronic acid: A humectant that binds water to improve the feeling of dry skin
- Niacinamide: Supports the skin barrier and reduces the appearance of oily skin
- Vitamin C: An antioxidant to support the skin from environmental stressors and factors
- Retinol: A Vitamin A derivative designed to improve the appearance of fine lines
“Some replenish the skin’s natural lipids, while others improve hydration or support the skin’s ability to maintain its own protective structure,” she explains.
Importantly, some of these ingredients may have interactions or be more suitable to some skin types over others. For example, using Vitamin C and retinol simultaneously isn’t always recommended, due to the risk of skin irritation or barrier disruption. Always read the ingredient lists on all your products to prevent interactions between ingredients and ensure suitability to your skincare needs.
What issues can I have when starting a new skincare routine?
Specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald reveals the common mistakes people can make when changing or starting a new skincare routine include:
- Using too many products at once: “If you start using five new products and your skin suddenly becomes irritated, you have no idea which one is responsible. Equally, if your skin improves, you don’t know which product is actually delivering the benefit.”
- Constantly swapping products: “People often expect dramatic results within a couple of weeks, and when they don’t see them, they move on to the next trending ingredient.”
- Trying trending products rather than products suitable to their skin: “Just because a product is fantastic for someone else on social media doesn’t mean it’s appropriate for you.”
- Overusing active ingredients: “More isn’t always better, and combining multiple exfoliants, retinoids and other potentially irritating products can leave skin inflamed rather than improved.”
How do I start a new skincare routine?
To prevent breakouts, irritation and spending too much money, Dr McDonald says, “my biggest piece of advice is to play the long game with skincare.”
Here are some tips to begin a new skincare regimen:
- Introduce one skincare product at a time, and if any irritation occurs, remove it from your routine
- Give your skin time to adjust to determine if you’re skin purging (temporarily breaking out by a change in skincare products) or reacting to a product
- Use chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs a maximum of three times a week
- Follow an appropriate morning and evening skincare routine
- Apply products from thinnest to thickest texture to prevent pilling
How do I care for my acne-prone skin?
To care for blemish-prone skin, you need to maintain the skin barrier without causing breakouts.
Specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald suggests using retinoids and Vitamin A skincare products, as those prone to oily skin and breakouts: “may benefit from lightweight, non-comedogenic formulations and ingredients such as salicylic acid, niacinamide or a retinoid.”
Spot treatments (such as benzoyl peroxide formulations) or salicylic acid (BHAs) may also be an option, but caution is advised to prevent over-application or over-exfoliation. If concerned, always consult a dermatologist before using a new ingredient or product on acne.
What type of moisturiser should I use to hydrate my skin?
There are three types of moisturising ingredients you can use to maintain skin hydration:
- Humectants: These are water-attracting ingredients designed to increase skin hydration, and help skin look plumper and feel softer. Ingredients include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol and lactic acid.
- Emollients: These are skincare ingredients designed to improve the skin’s smoothness, softness and flexibility. Ingredients include ceramides, fatty acids (like linoleic and stearic acid), and cholesterol.
- Occlusives: These are ingredients that form a layer over the skin barrier to prevent moisture from evaporating from the skin (transepidermal water loss). Ingredients include: dimethicone, lanolin, and plant oils (like coconut oil).
What small adjustments can I make to my skincare routine?
To refine your skincare routine for your skin type or specific skin concerns, these small changes are a great starting point:
- Follow a step-by-step skin layering checklist for both morning and evening skincare routines
- Apply all your products from thinnest to thickest consistency to prevent pilling and aid absorption
- Cleanse your skin twice a day – once in the morning and once at night
- Use a moisturiser daily for added skin hydration
- If using a spot treatment, apply before using your moisturiser
- Wait around 30 to 60 seconds after applying each product – if it’s taking longer to absorb, you may have applied too much
- If introducing a new product or active ingredient to your routine, patch test first
- If introducing multiple products to your routine, add one in at a time rather than all at once
- Never skip the sunscreen in your morning routine – this should be applied no matter the weather if heading outside
Meet our expert
Dr Cara McDonald: Specialist dermatologist and cosmetic injector
After completing her medical degree with First Class Honours, Tasmanian-born specialist dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald undertook specialist dermatology training at St Vincent’s Hospital and The Alfred Hospital in Melbourne, and trained at Oxford in the UK. She is now a Fellow of the Australasian College of Dermatologists, a consultant at St Vincent’s Hospital Melbourne, and has been the co-director and principal dermatologist at Complete Skin Specialists since 2010.
Rosalyn Fannin
Read related topics:Skincare
