Facial injections using fish DNA, known as polynucleotides, are becoming a popular skincare trend.

LONDON, Nov 27: Facial injections derived from fish DNA, often referred to as polynucleotides, are rapidly gaining popularity as a new skincare trend, promising skin rejuvenation, collagen production, and reduction of fine lines and acne scars.

The treatment, which uses tiny DNA fragments extracted from trout or salmon sperm, is designed to stimulate the body’s skin cells to produce collagen and elastin, essential proteins for maintaining skin structure. Patients undergoing the procedure hope for healthier, fresher, and more youthful-looking skin.

A young client at a south Manchester aesthetics clinic received injections in her lower face as part of a treatment aimed at reducing acne scarring and improving skin texture. “I just want to target those problem areas,” she said, noting that the procedure was “pretty painful” but effective in improving hydration and tightness.

Polynucleotide treatments have attracted attention after endorsements from celebrities including Charli XCX, Kim and Khloe Kardashian, and Jennifer Aniston. Charli XCX described them as “kinda like deep vitamins” for the skin, while the Kardashians reportedly incorporated the injections into their skincare routines.

Industry experts note the treatments may enhance regenerative skincare. Suzanne Mansfield of aesthetics company Dermafocus said, “All we are doing is enhancing something the body already does. That’s why these are so special.” Clinical trials suggest polynucleotides can potentially reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and scars, although effects vary from person to person.

However, the treatment comes at a high cost, with sessions ranging from £200 to £500 each and multiple treatments recommended over several weeks, followed by periodic top-ups every six to nine months.

While generally considered safe when administered by trained professionals, experts caution that the science is still developing. Consultant dermatologist Dr. John Pagliaro of Brisbane said, “We do not have good, strong data. More large-scale studies are needed to confirm safety and efficacy.”

Some patients have experienced adverse effects. Charlotte Bickley, 31, reported inflammation, skin infection, and darker under-eye circles after receiving the treatment prior to her wedding. “I would never have salmon DNA injected into my face again,” she said, highlighting risks when procedures are not performed correctly.

Regulatory oversight varies. In the UK, polynucleotides are registered as medical devices by the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) but are not regulated like medicines. They are not approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Industry representatives warn that untested products entering the market could pose safety risks.

Dr. Sophie Shotter, president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, emphasized that while polynucleotides are available to provide natural-looking results, “they are not a panacea” and other established treatments may have stronger scientific backing. She added that patient responses to cosmetic treatments remain highly individual.

The trend reflects a growing interest in regenerative and minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, but experts stress that consumers should carefully consider risks, efficacy, and the credentials of practitioners before undergoing treatment.