Easy ways to stop stinging, itching and pigmentation

Easy ways to stop stinging, itching and pigmentation

We’re constantly told to protect our skin barrier but sometimes, even with the greatest of care, things get compromised. Maybe you’re back from your holidays with stinging sunburn or had an adverse reaction to a new product in your skincare routine. It happens and when it does, quite frankly, it hurts! Luckily, getting your skin barrier back to normal isn’t difficult, but it will take a slight shakeup to your usual routine to get things back on track. So much of the skin barrier advice out there is based in lighter skin tones, from signs that it is in fact damaged to how to treat it, and it varies between skin tones and types.

Signs of a damaged skin barrier in darker skin

The first step is understanding whether your skin barrier is damaged, and getting to grips with what that looks or feels like for you.

For darker skin tones, the often spoken about signs of a damaged skin barrier, for example red, inflamed skin, can look slightly different. Dermatica dermatologist Dr Shendy Engelina says “inflammation from a damaged skin barrier doesn’t always look red on darker skin tones, and instead it often appears as a subtle purplish or hyperpigmented shadow.”

The best and most reliable way to check for a damaged skin barrier is to touch and feel your skin (with clean hands of course). “If your skin feels unusually warm, tight, or irritated, your barrier is likely compromised,” Dr Shendy says. “Other key signs to watch out for include persistent itchiness, rough or flaky patches, and a sudden sensitivity to products that you previously tolerated well.”

If symptoms persist, it might be time to consult your GP, as they could be signs that personalised medical advice and treatment is needed.

Sunburn vs irritation vs post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Sunburn, irritation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are all interconnected terms and refer to different types or stages of skin barrier trauma. They all damage the skin barrier in different ways, making it tricky to actually understand what’s going on and how best to treat it.

So, let’s break it all down. Dr Shendy explains that sunburn is “acute damage” caused by UV radiation from the sun. “This compromises the skin barrier and triggers an inflammatory response.”

A damaged skin barrier – which could be caused by lifestyle habits, harsh skincare routines, and environmental factors like UV radiation – means the skin’s protective outer layer has been weakened and made vulnerable. Irritation is the physical symptom of this damage, characterised by stinging, itching, or warmth.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation refers to the light or dark brown marks left behind after the initial inflammation has subsided. This happens because the inflammation triggers excess melanin production in the affected areas.

What to ingredients to start and what to stop

STOP: Active ingredients and exfoliants

When dealing with a compromised skin barrier, you’ll want to strip your routine back to the absolute basics. Dr Shendy recommends pausing all active ingredients – yes, that includes the vitamin C too – to allow your skin time to recover. Don’t worry, this is just temporary but it does mean stepping away from exfoliating acids (like AHAs and BHAs), retinoids, and harsh physical scrubs for a while, “as these will only exacerbate the inflammation and delay the healing process.”

START: Replenishing moisturisers and anti-inflammatory ingredients

“In the meantime, your routine should focus on replenishing products, choosing moisturisers formulated with ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids,” Dr Malvina Cunningham, Renew + Me’s consultant dermatologist, says.

“Pairing these lipid-dense creams with hydrating humectants like glycerin and soothing anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide, panthenol or centella asiatica helps further repair and prevents water loss and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Dermatica Caring Squalane Cream Cleanser
Skin 1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule Foam 125ml
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Renew+Me Nightly-Active-Treatment
Dr Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Tiger Grass Repair Cream 50ml

Now 20% Off

How to use sunscreen during skin barrier recovery

SPF shouldn’t solely be a staple in your summertime skincare routine – this is a year-round must have to protect your skin barrier from UV exposure, yes even in the colder months.

“Using sunscreen during barrier recovery is important especially for skin of colour, where UV exposure on compromised skin rapidly worsens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” Dr Malvina advises. Opt for a 100% mineral (physical) sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as these will be more gentle on your skin as it heals. Mineral sunscreens don’t often have the best rep as they tend to leave a white cast on deep skin tones, but you can go for a new-gen tinted formula (see below) during this step if you have medium deep skin.

Alternatively, look for products formulated for sensitive or eczema prone skin which are fragrance-free and alcohol-free formulas and incorporate soothing base ingredients like squalane or glycerin.

Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF50
Caudalie Vinosun Very High Protection Cream Spf50
Naked Sundays BeautyScreen Peptide Foundation Tint 30ml

Now 20% Off

Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF30

“Focus your daily routine on a non-stripping, fragrance-free cleanser, a barrier-repairing cream and a broad-spectrum sunscreen for sensitive skin or a mineral sunscreen with an SPF to protect vulnerable skin from darkening while it heals,” Dr Malvina says.

Apply an ultra-gentle, non-foaming cleanser with lukewarm water. Then follow with a rich ceramide-based moisturiser. Use this on slightly damp skin directly after cleansing to seal the hydration in and finish with a broad-spectrum, mineral sunscreen.

Lauren Gordon is a contributor for Cosmopolitan’s Black Beauty Hub and the Emerging Audiences Editor at The Mirror, where she leads the Under-35s team and serves as the creator-curator of The Gulp, a weekly lifestyle and culture newsletter.

With nearly a decade of experience across leading newsrooms and digital platforms, Lauren’s career in lifestyle and beauty journalism flourished after earning her journalism degree from the University of the Arts London.

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A modern skincare brand’s guide to sensitive skin

A modern skincare brand’s guide to sensitive skin

If you’re a beauty enthusiast with sensitive skin, then you are probably familiar with the struggle of trying new products. One wrong ingredient can cause breakouts, dryness, rashes, bumps, or a combination of all. For sensitive skin, creating a healthy skin barrier with products that combine high-performance actives with gentle formulations is essential. Built on this philosophy, British-made skincare brand Plenaire launched in India with a forward-thinking approach that blends science, transparency and emotional wellbeing. Inspired by the French philosophy of “en plein air”, which translates to “in the open air,” Plenaire’s selection of products is designed for a new generation of beauty lovers who value self-care as much as self-expression. Think barrier-first beauty, modular routines, and science-backed formulations that work with the skin barrier rather than overstimulating it. Because when it comes to sensitive skin, less is more.
Read along to unveil your new AM and PM skincare routine.

Images courtesy: Plenaire

A modern solution

At Plenaire, the secret to unlocking a healthier skin barrier begins with Éclat Botanique™, a unique product philosophy. Here, “éclat” translates to radiance, while “botanique” puts an emphasis on plant-derived and naturally sourced ingredients. Bringing together actives, bio-plant and marine components, these ingredients seamlessly combine to protect the skin barrier and maintain a natural glow. Rooted in modern science, actives such as BHA’s, Glycolic acid, Ceramides, and Hyaluronic acid help support the skin’s natural repair cycle. They work gently to calm irritation, reinforce the skin barrier, and provide long-term nourishment for a balanced, healthy-looking complexion.

For AM

Start your day with a two-step skincare ritual that promises clean and balanced skin. The ritual begins with Plenaire’s Duelle 2-in-1 Brightening Cleanser, a gentle daily cleanser with a pH of 5.5 that removes impurities and excess oil. With the goodness of Niacinamide, it helps brighten the skin without stripping it of moisture. Enriched with upcycled Jojoba micro-grains, it exfoliates to help smooth skin and restore its natural glow.

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Does your routine need a longevity skincare upgrade?

Does your routine need a longevity skincare upgrade?

Skin longevity is 2026’s big trend – does it deliver anything genuinely new? Or is it simply anti-ageing reinvented?

Any products in this article have been selected editorially however if you buy something we mention, we may earn commission.

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You might have been hearing a lot of talk about ‘skin longevity’ in recent months. Because ‘longevity’, for a while a buzzword bandied about by biohacking bros, has entered the beauty lexicon, with longevity skincare taking over the shelves in Boots and SpaceNK.

Major brands have brought out ranges that name-drop the L word: Lancome Absolue Longevity MD, fronted by 63-year-old actress Demi Moore, promises to target ‘cellular senescence’ (when old cells stop dividing), while Tatcha’s The Longevity Serum suggests that its Blue Zone-inspired ‘Okinawa Cellescence Complex’ of botanicals will do likewise. Meanwhile, on social media, influencers are sharing ‘skin longevity’ guides. But what exactly does it all mean? 

Actress Demi Moore is the face of LancomevLongevity MD skincare

From a wellness point of view, longevity science is all about not just extending our lifespan (the number of years we live) but extending our healthspan, the number of healthy years we live. The idea is that we can be proactive, focusing on prevention and preservation, rather than correcting or curing. Translate that into skin, and it’s ostensibly about keeping our skin healthy for longer. Yes, ‘skinspan’ is now a thing.

But is longevity skincare simply ‘anti-ageing’ by another name? Does it really demand specific longevity serums with new ingredients? To find out, I consulted some of the UK’s top dermatologists.

What is skin longevity?

I’ll be honest, my first instinct was to dismiss ‘skin longevity’ as a politically correct reinvention of the term ‘anti-ageing’, which has been demonised in the last decade, with many asking why we should be ‘anti’ a natural process, criticising the negative connotations associated with it, and the fact that it’s mainly aimed at women. However, many of the dermatologists I spoke to pointed out that it actually represents a shift in our thinking about skin.

“While there is certainly marketing attached to it, skin longevity reflects a genuine change in dermatology and skin science in the last five years,” says Dr Caitriona Ryan, clinical professor at University College Dublin, consultant dermatologist and co-founder of ID Formulas longevity supplements.

“It’s about a deeper scientific understanding of why skin ages and how we may be able to preserve its function over time.”

She points out that while traditionally, anti-ageing has focused on treating the visible consequences of ageing, such as wrinkles, pigmentation, laxity and uneven texture, skin longevity isn’t about how we make skin look younger, but about how we keep skin functioning like younger skin for as long as possible, in the same way that we want all our other organs to support us for the long haul.

“Healthy skin is remarkably resilient,” she adds. ”It repairs DNA damage efficiently, maintains a strong barrier, produces collagen effectively, controls inflammation and protects itself against oxidative stress. With age, those systems gradually become less efficient.

“Skin longevity is about supporting those biological processes before significant decline occurs,” she says. She and other dermatologists now look at skin through the lens of the hallmarks of ageing, the 12 biological processes that drive ageing throughout the whole body.

Applied to skin, these are concepts such as ‘inflammageing’ (the idea that ageing is actually a disease of inflammation),  mitochondrial health (the skin cells’ energy banks), cellular senescence (what happens when cells get old), preserving the extracellular matrix (keeping the structure of the skin intact) and DNA repair.

It’s all very different to the ‘anti-ageing’ tropes of blasting our wrinkles and lifting our jowls; these ideas were “simply not part of mainstream skincare conversations a decade ago,” she says.

All this does make perfect sense — after all, skin is the body’s largest organ and its first line of defence. The science is credible, but why is it that most of the new longevity skincare products target just the face – which makes up less than five per cent of skin  – not the whole body? There are only a handful of body longevity creams, such as Joonbyrd, Longevity Body Glaze, £62, which is aimed at improving skin resilience and Neova Body Repair, which has DNA repair enzymes, more on which below. 

This is where marketing muddies the waters. While ostensibly the focus of skin longevity is improving skin function, it’s also true that if you stop skin from declining, chances are you’re also preserving a more youthful face.

Who is skin longevity for?

When we’re talking about prevention rather than cure, it makes sense that you’d start a skin longevity regime earlier in your 20s or 30s, before you start to see an age-related decline in levels of collagen (wrinkles, sagging) and measurable decline in cellular energy (your mitochondria, your cell ‘batteries’.)

But you don’t necessarily need a longevity cream at this stage, as simple skin preservation habits can have the biggest effect, says consultant dermatologist, Dr Sidra Khan. “For most people in their 20s, ‘skin longevity’ is overwhelmingly delivered by daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, not smoking, [sufficient] sleep, and a sane barrier-supportive routine – not a shelf of endless serums!”

And, in fact, that’s exactly the demographic that No7 is targeting with the Prime Forever launch earlier this year. The range, targeted squarely at 30-somethings, leverages the concept of ‘prejuvenation’ — or keeping skin at its optimum for as long as possible — using a combination of peptides, antioxidants and sun protection.

But while a skin longevity approach can benefit everyone, there are some for whom it can be particularly helpful.

”We know that chronic inflammation drives ageing — ‘inflammageing’ is a real and well-described concept,” says Dr Khan. “So a regime built around calming inflammation, supporting the barrier and avoiding the irritation-repair-irritation cycle is both a longevity strategy and exactly what reactive skin, such as rosacea-prone or sensitised skin, needs.”

She adds that if you’re someone who doesn’t do well with “a traditional ‘anti-ageing’ routine stacked with strong actives that the skin can’t tolerate, a longevity-led, anti-inflammatory approach is often more appropriate.”

What to look for: key skin longevity skincare ingredients

There’s a lot of chat about exciting new longevity ingredients. But according to Prof Ryan, “many of our best evidence-based anti-ageing ingredients also happen to be our best longevity ingredients. The difference lies less in the ingredient itself and more in the biological pathways we are trying to support.”

  • Daily broad spectrum sunscreen

“Ultraviolet exposure remains the single biggest external driver of DNA damage, collagen breakdown and premature skin ageing, so daily broad spectrum sun protection does more to preserve long term skin function than anything else you can apply,” says Prof Ryan. “Any serious longevity conversation that does not begin there is incomplete.”

Like many dermatologists, she’s a fan of physical sun filters (such as zinc) because she believes they are less likely to cause irritation, and favours a tint, which shows the product contains iron oxide, which has been shown to offer extra protection to skin prone to pigmentation.

NAD+ is touted as a longevity ingredient, especially in the supplements landscape and is a coenzyme essential for cellular energy production, DNA repair, and metabolic signalling. But the consensus is that simply putting NAD+ into a cream or serum probably isn’t the answer, as it’s a large, unstable molecule and has limited skin penetration. However, topical ingredients, such as niacinamide, or sunflower sprout extract (see below) can help boost NAD+ levels within the body, might help, as might some oral NAD+ booster supplements. But, says Prof Ryan, “applying NAD+ directly is far more persuasive on a label than it is in the biology.”

UV from the sun damages our DNA, but there are some enzymes — found in bacteria, algae, other plants and many animals — that can help repair this damage. While humans may have evolved to no longer produce these enzymes ourselves, there is a way that we can benefit from them.

“Enzymes like this can be delivered in liposomes [fatty bubbles] so they penetrate skin and help to reverse any DNA damage caused by UV,” explains Dr Khan. “They boost our own repair machinery, clearing UV-induced lesions before they drive pre-cancers or mutations.” Still not widely used, they can be found in The Skin Diary Age Defence Moisturising Day Cream, SPF 50 and Neova’s Correction range and SPF.

The hottest new skin longevity ingredient is sunflower sprout extract. There’s a trademarked version of it called RejuveNAD, found in Swissline 360 Collagen Night Concentrate, and now also in Beauty Pie Youth Bomb Intense, £59 for members, which has been shown to boost NAD+ in vitro. However, it gets a lukewarm reception from the derms I spoke to. “Laboratory studies suggest it may activate antioxidant defence pathways and support mitochondrial resilience, but robust human data isn’t there yet,” says Prof Ryan. She’s similarly hesitant about other antioxidant ingredients such as CoenzymeQ10, which some claim can improve mitochondrial energy — “the topical evidence remains modest.”

“Certain botanical extracts [such as astragalus, centella asiatica, and rhodiola rosea] have been shown to slow telomere shortening,” says

But, explains consultant dermatologist Dr Malvina Cunningham of Skin & Me skincare.

Telomeres are protective caps on chromosome ends that shorten with each cell division. These extracts also modulate telomerase, the enzyme that maintains telomeres in vitro, she adds. “When telomeres become critically short, cells enter a state of ‘growth arrest’ that contributes to tissue ageing. “Human clinical data are still limited, though,” she adds.

Longevity skincare: the verdict

While the promise of longevity skincare is seductive, it feels like the marketing is still outpacing the science. If you want to preserve your ‘skinspan’, start with the basics. They might not be as flashy, but a consistent routine that helps to keep your skin barrier healthy and intact, includes broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin from DNA damage, and adds in antioxidants and enzymes to help mop up free radicals and repair any damage is essential. Once those basics are in place, then — and only then — you might want to look at products that can preserve your telomeres or boost NAD+ levels as well.

7 skin longevity skincare buys I rate

The prejuvenation powerhouse

No7 Prime Forever SPF50 Primer, £24.95

There’s no arguing with the combination of antioxidants and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection both found in this lightweight primer as our most powerful weapon against the destruction (and therefore accelerated ageing) of skin cells of any colour and of any age. To complete the triple threat, they’ve added No7’s potent peptide that’s the hero ingredient of the blockbuster No7 Future Renew damage repair range. It uses chemical rather than the mineral sun filters recommended by the derms I spoke to, but is nevertheless am affordable all-rounder if you aren’t prone to redness.

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The mineral SPF in 20 shades

Merit The Uniform, £34

As Prof Ryan says, broad spectrum sun protection, ideally tinted zinc oxide, is the starting point for any longevity regime. And this is particularly important for anyone who suffers from melasma, or any other form of hyperpigmentation, which can be considered a form of inflammation. I’ve tried many tinted SPFs and this, available in 20 shades, is one of the best.

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The soothing must-have 

The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, £17.30

Maintaining the skin barrier and dampening down any irritation is at the heart of longevity skincare so this serum, packed with soothing ingredients, such as bisabolol and centella asiatica, barrier repair heroes, such as ceramides, and that all-rounder, niacinamide, which might just help boots NAD+, is a winner.

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The dry skin saviour

Dr Sam’s Flawless Moisturiser Intense, £36

While the jury might be out on whether the sunflower seed extract that this contains can really boost NAD+ levels, this moisturiser is packed with skin-soothing and barrier-boosting ingredients, including panthenol, ectoin, squalane, ceramides, and centella asiatica. It’s perfect for dry, thirsty skin, as well as for any flares after you’ve been heavy-handed with an active. The new lighter version Dr Sam’s Flawless Moisturiser Balance, is a great everyday moisturiser for all skin types.

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The SPF that repairs sun damage

The Skin Diary Age Defence, £92

Yes it’s pricey, but not only is it packed with those DNA repair enzymes that target the damage form UV, but it’s been through some seriously rigorous tests to prove that it can reduce damage and inflammation and has been formulated by the UK’s top-tier derms, led by professor Chis Griffith, OBE. While any skin would benefit from this complex powerhouse, if you find yours normally reacts to UV filters, these are encapsulated, so you should have fewer issues.

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The doctor’s choice

Revision Skincare D.E.J. Daily Boosting Serum, £265

Oft-cited by aesthetic doctors such as Dr Sophie Shotter as their skin longevity serum of choice, this lightweight product, containing sunflower sprout extract and powerful peptides scooped Gold in the ‘Ageing Well’ category at the Get The Gloss Beauty Awards 2025. Judge Dr Ash Soni, a plastic surgeon says: ‘The science and the research behind Revision as a brand are excellent. The ingredients in this serum are innovative, with sunflower sprout extract to negate the visible effects of glycation and boost the energy of the cells. The clinicals are good – you can’t beat it.

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For body skin longevity

Neova Body Repair, £69

Bucking the trend of longevity skincare focusing only on the face, this body lotion combines those all-important DNA repair enzymes with a copper peptide complex to boost collagen and elastin production, allantoin which soothes skin as well as moisturising ingredients to help hydrate the skin.

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Il Sole 24 Ore

Beauty combines skincare, aesthetics and longevity

The beauty market is expanding and moving beyond traditional practices. More and more consumers are complementing their skincare and make-up routines with beauty treatments and solutions focused on performance and longevity (tools and treatments related to health, bodily function and the prevention of ageing), in a process that is redefining the boundaries of the sector.

Driving this change is what the second edition of the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) study, in collaboration with WWD, “Consumers Are Shaping a New Age of Optimisation in Beauty”, defines as the “optimizer” consumer: a profile that integrates aesthetic procedures and treatments aimed at performance and longevity into their traditional beauty routine, and which today accounts for 6 per cent of American adults – approximately 15 million people. Over the past twelve months, this segment has spent an average of $3,000 across the three categories.

According to the survey, carried out in April in the US amongst 5,000 consumers of beauty products, around 70 per cent of respondents said they were open to non-traditional solutions, whilst 80 per cent considered beauty to be a matter of physical and mental wellbeing, not just outward appearance. Should the ‘optimisers’ segment double in size, the report estimates a potential of over 30 billion dollars in added value for the entire beauty ecosystem, of which over 10 billion is linked to aesthetic procedures and more than 20 billion to the performance and longevity categories.

“Traditional beauty – understood as skincare, make-up and hair care – remains the cornerstone of the category, as it is upon this that consumers build their routines, but its definition is broadening,” comments Guia Ricci, managing director and partner at BCG. “Rather than relying solely on a few flagship products, today’s consumers combine solutions that address aesthetics, physical performance and longevity to achieve their desired results. This is a shift that brands must take note of: these consumers are pointing the way forward for the sector.”

70 per cent of beauty enthusiasts now regard cosmetic procedures as a regular part of their routine, a habit that is also reflected in their purchasing behaviour within the traditional beauty sector: 70 per cent have increased their spending on premium or medical-grade skincare products, whilst 50 per cent have introduced new steps or ingredients into their routine. A similar trend is evident with GLP-1 drugs, which are creating new beauty needs: they have been used by 30 per cent of optimisers in the last twelve months and, amongst those who have noticed physical changes or changes in skin quality, around half have turned to luxury or medical-grade skincare products, whilst amongst those who have experienced a loss of skin firmness, almost 80 per cent have increased their use of fillers, injectables, skin-tightening treatments or laser treatments. ‘Optimisers’ are also four times more likely than the average consumer to take supplements for longevity and to combat ageing, and twice as likely to use beauty supplements.

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