How to Build a Skincare Routine That Actually Works
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There’s a version of our skincare routine that lives inside our heads. It’s consistent. Strategic. Full of products that are supposedly doing something. And then there’s the truth. Half-used serums. A rotation of trending ingredients (or what’s on sale) and we’re left with a quiet suspicion that despite all of our efforts, our skin isn’t actually improving.
On this week’s episode of the ‘Live & Well’ podcast, host Melissa Magsaysay sits down with Colette Laxton, co-founder of The Inkey List, a science-backed skincare brand best known for making ingredient-focused products simple and easy to understand. What unfolds is less about what to buy and more about why so many routines don’t work.
Why skincare routines fail in the first place
For many of us, skincare doesn’t start with clarity but more with confusion. Laxton explains that most consumers fall into what she describes as the “confused” category. They are either new to skincare or trying to solve a specific issue like acne or sensitivity, and end up going through products without a proper plan.
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Laxton sees this confusion play out in how we build our routines. Instead of simplifying, we tend to add more. More products. More steps. More actives layered without fully understanding how they interact or what they actually do. The result, she suggests, isn’t necessarily better skin, but more inconsistency and irritation.
Magsaysay points to the behavioral loop many of us do recognize. When something feels off, we add again. Another serum. Another exfoliant. Another trend. While it creates the illusion of control, Laxton argues it’s working against our skin.
What skincare routines are getting wrong right now
One of the biggest issues, according to Laxton, is the overuse of exfoliating acids.
“I’ve got a bit of an issue with the overuse of exfoliating acids,” she says, referencing the widespread use of AHAs and BHAs. “I don’t think everybody should be using it all the time.”
Part of the appeal is immediate payoff, Laxton explains.
Skin can look smoother or more radiant quickly, which reinforces the habit. But Laxton cautions that the sensation we associate with effectiveness can be misleading.
“That tingling is not something you should be doing more than once a week, if that,” she says. At the same time, she sees a broader pattern tied to how we consume skincare today. Trends move fast. Ingredients go viral. And we seem to be adopting them without asking whether they’re actually right for us.
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“The problem I’ve got with a lot of trending products,” Laxton says, “…is that people buy them because it’s trending without understanding, is that one for me, or is that not for me?” This pattern often shows up as compromised skin. “A lot of issues right now are coming from the skin barrier,” she explains. “So many people are saying, ‘I’m sensitive.’”
What actually works in a skincare routine
If there’s a through line in Laxton’s approach, it’s simplicity. Her framework deliberately strips things back to essentials. Cleanse. Hydrate. Protect. “If you’re going to break it down and build a routine, literally start at cleansing your skin,” she says. “Find the right cleanser for you.”
It might sound obvious, but she notes that many of us skip foundational steps while investing in more advanced treatments. From there, hydration becomes the anchor.
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“I’m very interested in products and actives that really support hydration,” says Laxton. “A lot of problems that people are getting is dehydration.” That includes concerns we often label as something else. Signs of aging. Acne flare-ups. Sensitivity. All can be exacerbated when the skin lacks hydration or barrier support.
The final step is protection. “There is no point doing all these incredible things in your skincare routine and then not using an SPF,” she says. Laxton’s approach, she admits, isn’t designed to be exciting. It’s designed to be consistent.
How to build a simple skincare routine, according to Colette Laxton
If the goal is to simplify rather than add, the routine Laxton describes is intentionally minimal. It’s built around a few foundational steps.
At its core, the structure looks like this:
- Cleanse: A gentle cleanser is the starting point. Laxton points to formulas like The INKEY List Oat Cleansing Balm, which removes makeup and SPF without stripping the skin.
- Hydrate: Hydration is where she places the most emphasis. Ingredients like those found in The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum, which she says supports both moisture levels and the skin barrier.
Starter Retinol Serum
(The INKEY List)
- Treat (if needed): Targeted treatments like The INKEY List Retinol Serum or The INKEY List Niacinamide Serum could be introduced gradually based on how skin responds.
- Eye (optional): Products like The INKEY List Caffeine Eye Cream can often serve as an entry point, especially for concerns like puffiness or early signs of fatigue.
- Protect: Daily SPF like THE INKEY List Dewy Sunscreen SPF remains non-negotiable for Laxton, who says there’s little point in investing in a routine if skin isn’t being protected.
The structure is intentionally simple, but that’s the point.
The skincare reset
While there, of course, is still room for advanced ingredients and new formulations… Laxton herself points to emerging ingredients like ectoin and polyglutamic acid as areas of interest. But those additions are meant to build on a stable foundation, not replace it.
In practice, our takeaway is that we need to step back before stepping forward. Look at what’s already in our routine and ask whether our products serve a purpose. Because for most of us, the issue isn’t that our skincare routine is missing something. It’s that it’s doing too much.
Click here to listen to the full podcast episode.
