Beneath the ocean’s surface lie some of the world’s most fascinating natural ingredients.

From algae and seaweed to mud rich in minerals, people have been using powerful botanicals from the sea for everything from healing ailments to transforming skin health.

Marine-derived skincare has roots that predate modern cosmetic science – the beneficial use of many types of seaweeds was reported and recorded in some of the first written medical texts, according to a paper featured on Springer, a German multinational publishing company that publishes peer-reviewed journals in science, humanities, technical and medical (STM).

The paper notes that archaeological remains show that coastal communities harvested seaweeds as far back as 14,000–12,000 BCE.

Across ancient Greece, Rome, East Asia and coastal cultures worldwide, marine plants and algae were used for baths, ointments, poultices and other remedies for skin problems, wounds, inflammation and overall wellness, according to a paper published on MDPI, a Swiss-based publisher of open-access academic journals and books.

The same report also suggests that coastal communities used seaweed, seawater, mineral-rich mud and sea salts as part of traditional skin care, healing treatments, and “thalassotherapy” – the therapeutic use of the sea.

For centuries, people have been using ocean botanicals to soothe ailments and enhance skin health. Photo: La MerToday, beauty brands continue to harness the powers of these ingredients, but running alongside this is a mission to restore ecosystems, empower coastal communities and ensure the ocean remains protected for generations to come.

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Tapping into the ocean’s potential

Although numerous marine compounds are already being explored or incorporated into beauty formulations, only a fraction of their full potential has been tapped.

As cosmetic brands increasingly look to the sea for innovative actives, ongoing research remains essential to fully understand and validate their effects.

Elemis co-founder and global president Noella Gabriel reveals that a key marine ingredient used in their products is Padina pavonica, an algae found in the warm waters of the Mediterranean.

The brand studied Padina pavonica for years to unlock its skincare potential.

“This unique algae grows in shades of copper brown to olive green, waving gently in the ocean’s shallow waters, taking its energy from sunlight. Its leaves are coated in a fine slime, which might sound unappealing but provides potent skincare properties,” says Gabriel.

Undiscovered for thousands of years until it was found blanketing an old shipwreck, scientists noticed it had perfectly preserved the wood beneath.

Wondering how this was possible, the brand discovered that it is brimming with antioxidants to shield your skin against free radicals – harmful atoms that attack collagen and speed up premature ageing.

“The damage to skin cells from free radicals is known as oxidative stress, caused by sunlight, pollution and other toxins such as smoking and alcohol consumption, which gradually deteriorate your derma barrier. Water molecules start escaping, triggering excessive dryness and increasing the depth of facial creases,” explains Gabriel.

Founder of local brand Olumes Aerin Gabor grew up near the ocean, forming memories of her elders using a mix of botanicals and sea harvests to soothe the skin.

“During my own research years later, I discovered that the seaweed found in Semporna, Sabah, is remarkably rich in essential minerals and protective compounds compared to other regions,” says Gabor, who is a cosmetic chemist.

“That uniqueness pushed us to explore it further. We partnered closely with a local research centre to study, refine, and eventually develop our signature FCS Complex, a proprietary seaweed extract that captures the potency of Bornean marine biodiversity.”

What makes it so effective in skincare is its natural ability to support barrier repair, skin brightening, hydration and resilience, especially in tropical environments.

But to Gabor, it’s not just an ingredient.

“It’s a modern expression of the traditional practices I grew up with, backed by science and rooted in Borneo’s heritage.”

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Trials and testing

Marine-derived collagens and proteins, extracted from fish skin, scales or other marine sources are used for improving skin elasticity, hydration and reducing wrinkles/fine lines.

To support skin repair and cell renewal, marine peptides and amino acids are often incorporated in formulations for anti-ageing or barrier-support benefits, according to a research paper on MDPI.com titled Cosmeceutical Significance Of Seaweed: A Focus On Carbohydrates And Peptides In Skin Applications.

Turning raw marine materials into high-performance skincare is a research-driven process, with every active going through rigorous scientific validation, in vitro testing in the lab and in vivo studies on actual skin.

“This allows us to understand not just what the ingredient contains, but how it behaves biologically and what real results it can deliver,” says Gabor.

Working with ocean-derived ingredients does come with unique challenges, as marine materials are incredibly potent but also sensitive to factors like water pollution and variations in growing conditions.

“Ensuring purity, consistency and safety requires strict traceability from farm to extraction, along with careful processing methods to preserve the bioactive compounds without degrading them.

“The breakthrough for us has been finding the right extraction techniques and stabilisation methods that protect the integrity of these delicate marine actives,” says Gabor, who adds that it’s a mix of traditional knowledge, modern science and a lot of patience. Doing no harm

While brands harvest ingredients from the ocean, many do so in the most sustainable way possible.

This matters not just as a conservation matter, but also due to demand – Forbes recently reported that 44% of 18 to 36 year-olds stated that sustainability and ethics-related considerations are very important when buying beauty and wellness products.

“We are working to create smarter formulations that help reduce our impact on the planet. By working with suppliers and supporting regenerative farming programmes, we will ensure full traceability of our raw materials, promote fair working conditions and improve our impact on land and water use,” says Gabriel.

The local seaweed biotechnology company leading sustainable seaweed farming in Semporna that Gabor works with focuses on regenerating ocean ecosystems, not exploiting them.

“Through their programmes, farmers are trained to adopt more sustainable farming methods, such as reducing single-use plastics and improving farm management practices,” says Gabor.

This partnership allows the brand to use marine resources responsibly while supporting both the health of the ocean and the livelihoods of the communities who depend on it.

“All our marine ingredients are sourced from farms, not wild-harvested seaweed, ensuring that natural reefs and habitats remain undisturbed. These farms operate without chemicals or fertilisers and actively help absorb carbon and nitrogen, contributing to cleaner and healthier ocean waters.

Partnering with marine communities and societies, for example La Mer’s Blue Heart initiative, is common for brands with a connection to the ocean.

Through awareness-raising programmes, partnerships with environmental advocates and charitable donations, initiatives like these help protect marine habitats for generations to come.

Gabriel notes that her brand’s partnership with the Marine Conservation Society in the United Kingdom doesn’t just help restore and regenerate life below and above water, it also aims at helping to develop awareness of the importance the seas have on our planet’s health.

“Our financial contributions will enable greater ocean protection and recovery, including a ban on damaging fishing in offshore Marine Protected Areas, by urging the UK Government to implement tougher protections,” says Gabriel.

Working with coastal communities in Borneo strengthens the people whose livelihoods depend on the ocean.

Apart from prioritising recyclable materials, intentionally avoiding unnecessary plastics and shifting more components toward glass and PCR (post- consumer recycled) materials, Olumes also contributes to ongoing coastal clean-up efforts and community-led conservation programmes in Sabah.

“These initiatives focus on reducing marine debris, raising environmental awareness and encouraging younger generations to care for their ocean heritage,” says Gabor.

She believes the industry is only scratching the surface of what marine-derived skincare can offer.

“As consumers become more aware of sustainability and the health of our oceans, they’re also becoming more selective. It’s no longer enough for an ingredient to be ‘natural’, people want to know where it comes from, how it’s grown and the impact it leaves behind,” she says.

“The next wave of marine skincare will be all about traceability, biotech innovation and truly regenerative practices. We’re already seeing advancements in sustainable seaweed farming and cleaner extraction technologies that protect the delicate bioactives while reducing environmental impact.”

Blue beauty has the potential to become the new standard in skincare innovation, but only if brands approach it responsibly.

It’s not about using ocean-inspired marketing – it’s about making real commitments to ethical sourcing, supporting coastal communities and protecting marine ecosystems.