The viral skincare trend dermatologists are warning against: 6 reasons to avoid it
We seem to be going back to basics with everything these days, from improving sleep by mimicking our ancestors’ circadian rhythms to eating whole foods to reduce the risk of dementia.
This shift has paved the way for the viral “Caveman” skincare routine, a trend built on the premise that “less is always more” when it comes to keeping skin looking young and healthy.
The Caveman technique involves ditching skincare products entirely, including cleansers, in favour of washing your face with water alone. The most extreme version proposes avoiding water altogether! “The theory is that this allows the skin to ‘self-regulate’ naturally,” explains dermatologist Dr Cristina Eguren.
However, the doctor and other experts warn of a major flaw in this logic. “Water alone cannot effectively dissolve sebum or remove traces of sunscreen, makeup or pollution,” notes fellow dermatologist Dr Inés Escandell. “Adequate cleansing requires surfactants (active cleaning ingredients) capable of removing these substances without disrupting the skin’s barrier.”
Why you should avoid the viral ‘Caveman Skincare’ routine
© GettyThe Caveman technique involves ditching cosmetic products entirely in favour of cleansing with water alone
Taken at face value (pun intended), the idea of a ‘natural detox’ sounds appealing. However, skipping your daily cleanse can trigger a cascade of skin problems. The Caveman routine can:
- Disrupt the skin’s microbiome: Our skin hosts an ecosystem of microorganisms that coexist in a delicate balance. “Without a proper cleansing routine, it’s easier for certain bacteria and mites to proliferate, disrupting that balance,” says Dr Eguren. Dr Escandell adds that failing to remove sweat, sebum, pollutants or dead cells creates a situation that “favours the appearance of opportunistic or pathogenic microorganisms.”
- Encourage bacterial proliferation: As noted above, leaving sebum and dirt on the skin creates a breeding ground for bacteria. “This increases the risk of inflammatory disorders and infections,” states Dr Eguren. Dr Escandell points to clinical evidence: “Studies on acne patients show that cleansing once or twice a day reduces the load of bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes. Other studies demonstrate that a lack of cleansing encourages Staphylococcus aureus to flourish.”
- Cause irritation: “The accumulation of impurities and excess sebum can [weaken] the barrier function,” explains Dr Eguren. “The skin becomes sensitised and more prone to dehydration, leading to irritation, redness and discomfort.”
- Trigger infection and acne breakouts: An inflammatory environment is ideal for the blackheads and pustules to thrive. Dr Eguren adds: “By not properly removing impurities and cellular debris, especially excess sebum, pores become clogged. This can trigger or worsen breakouts of acne, rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis.”
- Accelerate ageing: “Avoiding cleansing hinders proper cell renewal and exposes the skin to more free radicals, which accelerates ageing,” asserts Dr Eguren. Our skin also needs antioxidants and sun protection to remain healthy. “Skipping SPF increases oxidative damage; UV radiation and pollution contribute to photoageing, collagen loss and wrinkles. Also, dehydrated skin simply looks older,” says Dr Escandell.
- Cause Dermatosis Neglecta: This is a specific condition caused by the build-up of dead cells and dirt, resulting in dark, rough patches. “In the absence of proper cleansing, these brownish or greyish plaques appear, formed by a solidified accumulation of sweat and sebum,” Dr Escandell concludes.
© ShutterstockLack of cleansing can trigger or worsen breakouts of acne, rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis
The alternative: A dermatologist-approved routine for healthy skin
According to the experts, a proper facial cleansing routine should be simple, consistent and tailored to your specific skin type. It also should be done both morning and night, even if you haven’t worn makeup.
© Getty ImagesDermatologists recommend a gentle cleanse, morning and night
Here is the recommended protocol:
- In the morning: Start with a gentle cleanse using a product suited to your skin type. Next, apply an antioxidant serum (such as Vitamin C). Finally, finish with broad-spectrum sun protection (minimum SPF 30), which is essential year-round but critical during the summer months.
- At night: “I recommend a double cleanse, particularly if you have been wearing makeup,” advises Dr Eguren. “Start with an oil-based cleanser or micellar water to break down surface grime, then follow with a water-based gel or foam cleanser to rinse the skin clean.” Once the skin is prepped, apply a product containing active ingredients, such as retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
- Exfoliation: “It is very beneficial to include proper exfoliation to effectively remove traces of oil, cellular debris and Demodex mites; this will improve the skin’s condition and function,” explains Dr Eguren. Frequency will depend on your skin type. “For oily skin, this can be done frequently, even daily,” Dr Eguren concludes. “For dry skin, once or twice a week is sufficient.”
© Getty ImagesMicellar water can also be beneficial for skin health
The dangers of viral misinformation in skincare
The fact that the Caveman routine has gone viral on TikTok means it has resonated with, and unfortunately misinformed, a massive, predominantly young audience.
“Social media can turn any practice into a trend, even without a scientific basis,” warns Dr Eguren. “Many young people adopt this routine without understanding the implications. It normalises habits that aren’t beneficial for skin health and can actually worsen conditions like acne or rosacea.”
Dr Escandell shares this concern, noting that the craze trivialises the importance of dermatological hygiene. It also “may encourage people with acne, dermatitis or rosacea to abandon effective treatments and disregard specialist advice.
“As with other fads, it creates unrealistic expectations; the ‘benefits’ shown online are usually anecdotal and cannot be applied to the general population.”
About the experts:
- Dr Cristina Eguren is a dermatologist and founder of the Eguren Clinic in Madrid.
- Dermatologist Dr Inés Escandell is a member of Spain’s Aesthetic and Therapeutic Dermatology Group as well as the Dermothéque blog and skincare podcast.
