If your beauty cabinet is already full of Korean skincare or you faithfully follow a 10-step K-beauty routine, it may or may not surprise you to learn that Japanese skincare has a similar methodology, just with its own distinct philosophy and hero ingredients. Less trend, more tradition.

According to aesthetician Emma Jinn, “Japanese skincare is all about prevention, consistency and respecting your skin. No harsh steps, no rushing results, just solid basics done really, really well.” The goal is not instant transformation, but gradual, visible improvement over time.

The structure of the J-beauty routine will feel familiar, but with a few key differences. Board-certified dermatologist Jane Yoo, MD, explains that hydration in Japanese skincare is built in layers rather than relying on a single, heavy product. “Lighter lotions and essences are applied first, followed by creams or emulsions,” she says. This allows the skin to stay deeply hydrated without feeling greasy or congested. Texture matters just as much as ingredients with an emphasis on small, consistent steps that support skin health over the long term. The products themselves tend to be gentle, thoughtfully formulated and often more affordable than you might expect, making them easy to incorporate without overhauling your entire routine.

Below, we break down the nine essential steps of a Japanese skincare routine, according to experts. As always, consider this a framework rather than a rule book. You can customise it based on your specific skin concerns or type and whether you’re getting ready for the day or winding down at night.

AM + PM Step 1: Oil Cleanser

Dr. Yoo explains that the first step in a Japanese beauty routine is oil cleansing. “Oil cleansing is foundational because it removes oil-based impurities like sunscreen, makeup, excess sebum and pollution without disrupting the skin barrier,” she explains. Rather than stripping the skin, Japanese skincare emphasises gentle, yet thorough cleansing to preserve hydration. Many J-beauty cleansing oils also reflect centuries-old beauty practices, often incorporating traditional Japanese botanical oils that support softness, balance and overall skin comfort (all while being superb makeup removers).

SHISEIDO Perfect Cleansing Oil

A lightweight cleansing oil that dissolves everything from base makeup to waterproof eye formulas without leaving residue. Grape seed oil helps smooth roughness and dullness, making it an ideal first cleanse.

Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil

This herbal oil cleanser melts away sunscreen, waterproof makeup and excess sebum with ease. The silky texture emulsifies on contact with water, cleansing thoroughly while keeping skin comfortable and nourished.

AM + PM Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser

After an oil cleanser lifts away sunscreen, makeup and excess sebum, a water-based cleanser finishes the job by removing sweat, dirt and environmental residue. Dr. Yoo explains that double cleansing is a skincare cornerstone in Japan because it cleanses deeply without disrupting the skin barrier. “This method helps preserve moisture while allowing subsequent steps like toner and moisturiser to work more effectively,” she continues. Water-based washes are typically creamy foam cleansers or gentle gels that feel soft on the skin and rinse clean without leaving it tight or dry.

Caudalie Vinoclean Instant Foaming Cleanser

An ultra-gentle, soap-free cleanser that transforms from a clear lotion into an airy foam. Made with 97 percent natural-origin ingredients, it cleanses without drying and leaves skin feeling soft and fresh.

LANEIGE Water Bank Gentle Gel Cleanser

Formulated to match skin’s natural pH, this cleanser removes makeup, sunscreen and impurities without disturbing the moisture barrier. Blue hyaluronic acid, allantoin and amino acids keep skin hydrated and calm. A solid everyday option for sensitive or dehydrated skin.

Bi-weekly AM Step 3: Exfoliation

While exfoliation remains part of Japanese skincare, it’s approached far more gently and infrequently than in many Western routines. Instead, active ingredients are selected sparingly and with intention. Jinn explains that “Japanese skincare tends to lean away from frequent use of AHAs and BHAs and when they are used, it’s typically at much lower concentrations than Western brands.” Instead, she prefers exfoliants formulated with rice bran for brightening, which gently buffs away dead skin while leaving the skin exceptionally smooth and comfortable. As for frequency, she recommends exfoliating just two to three times per week to maintain non-irritated, healthy skin.

The Face Shop 2% Panthenol Exfoliating Gel

A gentle exfoliating gel, powered by a multi-acid blend of AHA, BHA, LHA and PHA that lift away dead skin, while panthenol keeps irritation in check. Cellulose adds a mild physical exfoliation, leaving skin smoother, clearer and refreshed, even for sensitive types.

Beauty Of Joseon Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel Mask

With 19 percent plum blossom water and 8 percent plant cellulose to gently roll away dead skin cells and excess sebum for smoother texture, this soft, moist gel buffs without grit or acids, making it ideal for dull, sensitive or easily-irritated skin that can’t tolerate harsh scrubs.

AM Step 4: Lotion

“In Japanese skincare, toner is referred to as lotion and its primary role is hydration and skin conditioning, not exfoliation or stripping,” says Dr. Yoo. These formulas are designed to replenish the water lost during cleansing, restoring comfort and softness immediately after washing. “Many Japanese brands explicitly contrast lotions with Western toners that often contain high levels of alcohol and are used for oil control or extra cleansing.”

Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Serum Toner

Ceramide NP and panthenol reinforce the barrier and lock in moisture. Lightweight but cushioning, it floods dry, rough skin with hydration while prepping it for the rest of your routine.

Pixi Milky Tonic

Jojoba milk and oat extract calm, soften and rehydrate skin. The fluid, milky texture feels like a light skin-milk, making it ideal after cleansing when your barrier needs comfort rather than acids.

AM Step 5: Essence

“Essence is viewed as a lightweight treatment layer that delivers hydration and skin conditioning without overwhelming the skin,” explains Dr. Yoo. “This step helps refine skin texture and clarity over time, which aligns with the Japanese focus on gradual improvement and long-term skin health.” Designed for daily, consistent use, essence bridges the gap between hydration-focused steps like lotion to nourish your complexion and more targeted products such as serums or moisturisers.

Mixsoon Soondy Centella Asiatica Essence

A minimalist essence to calm, strengthen and support skin resilience. Made with centella asiatica, it helps soothe redness and support elasticity over time. Lightweight and fragrance-free, it’s especially well-suited to sensitive or easily irritated skin.

COSRX Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence

Powered by 95 percent galactomyces ferment filtrate, this essence focuses on clarity, tone and texture. The lightweight formula hydrates, refines and boosts brightness, while niacinamide helps balance oil and soften the look of fine lines.

AM + PM Step 6: Serum

Depending on your skin type and goals, face serums act as targeted support products in a Japanese skincare routine. “They are meant to address specific concerns such as dullness, dark spots, dehydration or uneven texture while maintaining overall skin balance,” says Dr. Yoo. Rather than relying on long ingredient lists, many Japanese serums focus on a smaller number of carefully selected actives, often sourced from natural ingredients like rice, sea botanicals or green tea. “This approach reflects a broader cultural value placed on balance, simplicity and refinement,” she explains. Serums are typically lightweight, allowing them to layer comfortably with other Japanese beauty products, such as essences and moisturisers.

Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum

Targets dullness and dark spots with a gentle approach. Rice bran water hydrates and supports an even-looking complexion, while alpha-arbutin helps visibly brighten and refine tone over time.

Estēe Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum

Addresses multiple signs of ageing in one step. Its Chronolux™ Power Signal Technology works overnight to smooth fine lines, improve tone and restore radiance compromised by daily environmental stressors. Lightweight, oil-free and fragrance-free, it suits almost every skin type.

AM + PM Step 7: Light Moisturiser

“Moisturiser is used to seal in hydration from earlier steps like lotion, essence and serum, which are central to Japanese routines,” explains Dr. Yoo. Moisturising, she adds, is essential for maintaining skin balance and a healthy barrier. “Many Japanese moisturisers are formulated to deeply hydrate without feeling greasy, making them comfortable for everyday use regardless of climate or skin type.” This emphasis on elegant, lightweight textures encourages consistent daily use, which is key for long-term hydration and barrier support.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel

Powered by hyaluronic acid and prebiotics, this gel formula helps skin retain moisture for a plump, refreshed feel that lasts all day. The fast-absorbing texture suits all skin types, especially those prone to dehydration.

ETUDE HOUSE Soonjung 10-Free Moist Emulsion

This calming emulsion is for skin that needs soothing. Panthenol and madecassoside hydrate and help strengthen the skin barrier, while the low-pH formula keeps balance intact. Ideal for sensitive or reactive skin.

AM + PM Step 8: Heavy Moisturiser

Because Japanese skincare prioritises prevention as much as correction, moisturisers are used daily not only for dry skin but also to protect against environmental stressors, dehydration and early signs of ageing, even for balanced or combination skin types. Dr. Yoo describes this as a “double moisturising” approach, where hydrating steps like lotion and essence provide the first layer of moisture, followed by a cream or richer moisturiser to seal everything in and minimise moisture loss without heaviness or congestion.

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream

An indulgent daily moisturiser backed by decades of cellular research. Powered by the brand’s proprietary TFC8® complex, it supports skin renewal while deeply hydrating and smoothing fine lines, uneven tone and texture.

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream

A rich yet fast-absorbing cream designed to comfort dry, stressed and eczema-prone skin. Formulated with colloidal oatmeal, it soothes irritation, strengthens the skin barrier and delivers long-lasting hydration from the first application.

AM Step 9: Sunscreen

The best form of anti-ageing is staying loyal to your daily SPF application. UV exposure is viewed as a major contributor to fine lines, pigmentation and barrier damage, which is why sunscreen is applied consistently year-round, explains Dr. Yoo. “Daily sun protection is treated as an essential preventive skin-care habit, not just something reserved for beach days or outdoor activities.” Japanese sunscreens are typically formulated to be lightweight, non-sticky and comfortable enough for everyday wear. “They often offer broad-spectrum protection with both SPF and high PA ratings, making it easier for users to choose formulas that effectively defend against both UVB and UVA rays.”

Innisfree Hyaluron Moist Sunscreen

If you struggle with sunscreens that feel heavy or chalky, this one is a pleasure to wear. The serum-like texture sinks in quickly, keeps skin comfortably hydrated and leaves no white cast behind. With added hyaluronic acid, it works just as well under makeup as it does on bare skin.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE400 Invisible Fluid

A reliable favourite for a reason, this one’s gentle, lightweight and easy to wear every day. It sits well under makeup and is especially good for sensitive or acne-prone skin. The kind of sunscreen you’ll actually remember to reapply.

This article first appeared on Vogue.com